Due to my exceptional powers persuasion and general awesomeness, I was one of a lucky few airmen selected to participate in the Hyundai Motor's Cultural Friendship Tour (actually, I just happened to be the only new guy in the shop who showed any interest in Korean culture, but hey, allow me my fantasies). In order to promote good continuing relations between our countries, Hyundai sponsors these three day trips twice a year for about 120 service members each. In that short period we travel to both ends of the peninsula, visit industrial, historical, artistic, religious and military points of interest, as well as are educated on Korean culture throughout the ride. Needless to say, this was right up my alley and I am still thinking of the best way to appropriately thank my supervisor for getting me on this trip!!
It all started in Seoul, well, actually in Songtan for me, as it is an hour bus ride to Seoul, specifically Youngsan Army Base, where we were gathering. Anyways, once there we were briefed on what was expected of us and the general itinerary. As it happened, they basically just wanted us to be polite, pay attention, take lots of pictures and eat Korean food. Daunting as these tasks may be, I was resolved to do whatever it took to impress, even if that meant I had to order seconds or thirds! LOL The group of about 100 was divided into six buses, each assigned its own tour guide. As a member of Bus 6 I was introduced to our super-high-tech and very comfortable bus, insanely masterful driver, and beautiful and gracious tour guide Ms. Linn. Introductions complete, and cheeks comfortably situated, the caravan disembarked starting our five hour drive to Ulsan City and the main production site of Hyundai Motors.
Along the way we stopped twice at rest stations on the Korean highway, and I was very impressed with the facilities there. The stations seemed to be semi-standardized, with large restroom accomodations, a cafateria, several fast food vendors and the ubiquitous snack carts. Everything was clean, but at every stop we were swarmed by children on school trips. Now, I know everyone is used to me being a paragon of patience and cultural understanding...however, the shear number of children and the inherent chaos they bring was almost too much for me to bear. So, rest stops were made with the utmost of haste on my part, lest I get swept away in a tide of grumpy-old-man outrage....
On a more pleasant note, we ate lunch at one of the cafeterias and I had some not-so-special Bipimbop (basically steamed rice with various "stuff" added) which was actually quite tastey and filling, as well as a simple squid salad. Of more interest was a side dish of unpeeled root vegetables that looked like miniature parsnips, in a kimchi-like sauce. I asked Ms. Linn about them, but she was not sure how to translate, and so I just have to leave it as a culinary mystery at this point. I am fond of the crunchy and earthy texture they have left in my memory. At about 1330 we arrived in Ulsan city, about 15 minutes behind schedule. This will become important later...
Ulsan city, home to the original Hyundai motor plant, and now home to their Heavy Industries division as well, is a very wealthy city, and it definitely showed. All of the roads were in top condition, the streets were cleaner than I had seen in any other city here, and there was a running trail/park along both sides of the river that meanders through a great portion of the city. Besides being unusually well manicured, this city actually smelled good. To put this into perspective, but not intending to cast any insults at Songtan, the latent aroma of the Songtan Entertainment District (which is the very polite official designation for the trashy bar scene that stretches out before the gates of Osan Airbase) is somewhat of a cross between stale cigarette butts, urine, beer, old frier grease and rotting garbage, with a slight whiff of cologne. Appealing, no? Well, as I tried to explain to a local bartender the last night we were in Ulsan, the air there carried none of those aromas. Sure it had a bit of an industrial scent, but the breeze from the harbor and general cleanliness of the city made it seem like a field full of the Aunts' roses.
Anyways, Ms. Linn informed us that due to the presence of Hyundai and its workers, and those companies sub-contracted out to Hyundai, the average income of the city was nearly double that of the rest of the country. As we took our tour of the facility, we discovered that Hyundai takes very good care of its employees. They are given a generous salary, housing stipend, healthcare, pension, and pay for your first three children to attend college!!! Not too shabby, and as others on my bus said, where do I apply?
Now, as I said, we were running about 15 min late for our tour of the car factory. To be honest, as much as I am a stickler for a schedule, 15 min does not seem like a big deal, but our schedule was jam packed, and could ill afford any errors. Once we arrived, we were ushered into the theater adjacent to the large showroom, introduced to the facility and its capabilities, and shown a promotional video extolling the virtues of Hyundai and its bright future across the globe. I do not doubt any of their claims, and have seem the company grow in the market over the past five years considerably, however, I have to admit that industrial tours are just not my thing. Fortunately for me, our 15min verspaetung meant that our Hyundai appointed tour guide put her high-heels into overdrive and had us through five factory buildings and a complete production life of a car in ten minutes flat. Just in time to be rushed out the door and whisked across town to the Hyundai Heavy Industries compound, where they construct large equipment, but most impressively cargo ships, of which they are the 4th largest producer in the world.
Cargo Ships. Yeah, I agree, not getting my blood going either. Until I saw the sections waiting to be attached, the cranes involved in the construction and then the unbelievable size of these vehicles. Being able to see the entire ship in the dry-dock, without the water to obscure the potions under the waves, really put into perspective just how incredibly massive and complex these ships are. We drove through the construction grounds (photos were prohibited here, and back at the car factory) first by the large warehouses where the various sections of the ships were constructed and stored. This began to give me an idea of how massive these ships were. Then we turned the corner and my jaw dropped. There were cranes, ten stories high straddling a dry-dock the same depth and over 700 feet long, in which lay a partially constructed ship crawling with ants -read people- and twinkling with the light of welding torches. Slowly I began processing all of the data. The cranes said they were rated for 1209 tons, that is nearly 2.5 MILLION pounds!! And then it struck me that these ships were being held aloft in the dry-docks with steel pillars that looked in comparison like toothpicks. I thought how uncomfortable would I feel walking underneath something so earth-shatteringly huge at work everyday, knowing it is being held up by only a few lengths of metal? As you can tell, my assumptions about industrial tours have changed quite significantly thanks to Hyundai Heavy Industries.
After the driving tour, we were greeted with similar treatment as at the car factory: politely ushered into theater, given spiel about how thankful they are, we reciprocate, watch indoctrination, oops, promotional video, receive gift. The heavy industries also had a small museum which we briefly toured. It functioned as both as showcase of their accomplishments, and as a shrine to their founder; a man of modest beginnings, great ambition, good fortune, and humble way of life.
With all of this strenuous touring, my tummy began to rumble as we were leaving the museum. Fortunately for me, we were back on schedule and slated for dinner at the Lotte Hotel (pronounced like the popular coffee drink Latte), which is a large corporation in Korea, and has very high standards. The hotel itself was very well appointed, reminiscent of a Grand Hyatt or Westin style business hotel. However, the Americans had been prepared for this fancy occasion to occur the following day, and so we were all dressed in very casual attire, to which I was slightly embarrassed. However, not so much as Lt. Col. Kim, who was the highest ranking member of our group and the figurehead for all functions. His Korean counterpart, who was waiting at the hotel, was the VP of Hyundai Motors, a rather influential and well-to-do gentleman. So I can only imagine how initially uncomfortable Col Kim must have felt when he found out the plans had changed. Despite the impromptu nature to the gathering, Col Kim was very well spoken and received, and the dinner itself was bountiful and delicious. In true hotel opulence, there was an ice sculpture commemorating the event, 20 feet each of appetizers, sushi, and hot plates, and desserts, as well as cooked to order Korean BBQ. Also, I suppose the kitchen was informed of my attendance, as there was a roasted suckling pig awaiting my attention. After the ceremony and picture taking, we had exactly 57 minutes to enjoy the great spread before it was time to be ushered out of this hotel, and be sent across town to the Hyundai Hotel where we would be spending the night for the next two days. The Hyundai Hotel, although attractive, clean and modern, was more like a Marriot than a resort, but served our purpose grandly, and catered fantastic meals of their own. With a head full of fresh memories and unexpected sights, and a belly fully of tasty treats, I settle in for a well deserved nights sleep, aided by a nip of scotch.
Much more to come in Parts II and III, as the whirlwind tour continues :-)
