Awaiting us on the bus was the ever cheerful Ms. Linn, and the prospect of a five hour drive to our next destination, the Korean Navel Base in the city of Pyeongtaek. This city also happens to be the neighboring city of Songtan, where Osan AB is situated. I admit that I was a tad surprised that this large navel base was so close to us and I had never heard of it before. With the exciting tour of the Hyundai shipyards fresh in my memory I was eager to get to this base and take a gander at some mighty warships.
During the ride, which was unfortunately extended do to some serious traffic, I was able to finish reading a short history book on Korea. It was dated, and only documented up to 1993, but it was still very helpful in understanding the tenuous evolution of the Korean-American Alliance. The author put forth that the American military was in an oversight position after the armistice was signed and South Korea rebuilt its government. In this position, despite taking a generally hands-off approach to internal Korean politics, there still appeared implicit backing from the Americans for the next several presidential regimes, who acted more like dictators. The American forces stood by as the ruling regime suppressed freedom of press, speech and assembly, and imprisoned many political prisoners. By the late 1960s and into the 1980s there were large and occasionally violent protests against the Korean president as well as the United States due to the perceived intervention in domestic politics. After nearly two decades of autocratic rule by a president who came to power through a military coup, he was assassinated and replaced by his prime minister who continued to follow some of the same repressive policies, including the Gwangju massacre of 200 civilian protesters. It was not until 1992 that South Korea would have its first democratically elected civilian president. His wave of democracy, promise of renewed freedoms, as well as the strict but effective economic policies of the previous rulers put South Korea on the path to a bright future, which I am happy it has seized. Had things not turned out this way, I doubt I would be able to explore so carefree, nor meet so many welcoming and helpful people.
Unintentionally, the end of this book and my lesson in modern Korean history was to prove poignant regarding our naval base excursion. After a standard lunch of Bulgogi in the marine barracks we were taken to the salvaged and partially reconstructed wreckage of the Korean frigate Cheonan. It was split in two by a North Korean torpedo, killing over 40 sailors and bringing the two nations closer to war than at any other point in the past 60 years. There is no official reason why the North would capriciously attack a single vessel. This was not part of some larger conflict, rather an isolated incident of aggression. In my opinion, the North Korean government has these deadly "temper tantrums" every few years to demonstrate its commitment to hating South Korea and western democracy, in order to give them some bargaining power when they approach the West to beg for money and supplies to feed the thousands of countrymen that the "magnanimous" communist party is allowing to starve. The ultimate question remains. How do you bring this derelict and dangerous country back into the fold without a massive loss of life? I am hoping that with the recent passing of Kim Jong-Il, that his son will have more sense and compassion for the millions of citizens relying on his leadership to get his country out of the mess it took his fore bearers 60 years to create....Let us have patience. A bit more patience than we are giving our current president to clean up a mess in only three years that took over eight to create.
It was heavy thoughts that we departed for Suwon and the Hwangseon Fortress. Having previously visited, and extensively posted on the fortress, I will forgo any repetition. Instead of touring the fortress again, I spent my time trying my hand at Korean National Archery. I may not be Robin Hood, but with just a crash course and 30 minutes of practice, I was able to consistently hit a 6'x6' target at 30 paces, HAHA.As is only appropriate, the tour guides planned to have our farewell meal at a local Galbi restaurant. Galbi is the local specialty, and is a meal of sweet/spicy Bar-B-Que-like marinated pork. As with all traditional Korean meals, it is served around a table for four. You all share a built in skillet to cook the Galbi as it is brought to you, as well as roast some whole garlic. The meat, when cooked to your liking, is eaten in a manner common to many meals including sashimi and roasted meats served cold and sliced. That is to have an assortment of lettuce and sesame leaves, as well as Korean ketchup (a thicker, darker, spicy and less sweet style), garlic and fresh hot peppers. The fresh sesame leaves are beautifully heart shaped and have a pleasant anise flavor. With little complication, one takes the finished meat, and whatever condiments are desired and places them in the leaf of choice, and promptly devours said package of joy. Like most Korean meals, this is experiential and community dining meant to create conversation and this dinner was definitely fun and delicious! A bit surprisingly, there was no elaborate good-bye ceremony, or even a collective "See you later." We simply were politely told that the buses would be leaving in ten minutes, and we should probably be on one of them, hehe. By this time, I was eager to get back to my twin bed in a closet, and spend the upcoming weekend relaxing! All in all, I could not have asked for a better welcome to Korea trip, especially on the company dole. A great big Kamsahamnida to Hyundai and MSgt Sprague!!!!!!!!!
